Finger strength trainer climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Finger strength trainer climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Finger strength trainer climbing reddit. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. Reddit's rock climbing training community. May 30, 2022 · If you are genuinely interested in training your grip for BJJ, your best resources are one of the routines on r/griptraining, or Dan Strauss has a grip training for BJJ instructional available, that is specifically tailored for BJJ athletes. Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes Additional strength training, especially for your fingers, isn’t recommended until you have at least a year of regular climbing. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. Feb 15, 2024 · Arm-Lifting is a recent trend in finger strength training. Hi, was looking into getting the Block by Tension Climbing to train finger strength without having to travel to my local climbing gym. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. Apr 23, 2024 · We can all agree finger strength is the No. Source: am a rock climbing coach. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. I've seen Eric Horst and Geek Climber actually train pinch strength with pinch blocks, which is a targeted and efficient way to expose yourself to frequent load and thus improve. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. Finger injuries, elbow injuries, and injuries to the forearm flexors are common in our hobby. How forearm training improves our climbing? I'll start that by forearm training I don't mean any types of static hangs/holds but rather exercises like dumbbell (wrist) curls , reverse curls, wrist rotation etc. Building finger strength takes time and can be a gradual process. Aug 5, 2021 · Finger Strength Training : r/climbharder. The problem with just climbing routes is that you don't usually expose yourself to enough pinches, so pinch strength won't drastically improve if you don't pinch enough. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. I'm focusing on exercises that target my finger flexor muscles, such as hangboarding, campus board training, and finger rolls. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. But most finger strength training research uses 22-25mm edges, and these edge depths, especially the 25mm, make more sense for recruitment than smaller edges. I know that building finger strength takes time and patience, but I'm willing to put in the work. I’ve been climbing 3. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. It takes between 1 and 2 years to build enough finger strength to not injure them while climbing a lot and hard. 128 votes, 41 comments. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. com Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Feb 16, 2018 · Reddit's rock climbing training community. Just climbing initially is more than eneugh stimulus. Mar 10, 2023 · For most climbers, certainly the trained ones, finger training has tended to mean doing weighted hangs on a 20mm edge for either 7 or 10 seconds. Loads of people do them, including a lot of very strong climbers. For as complicated as this grip trainer may sound, the exercises themselves are actually quite Jan 12, 2022 · Some climbers will naturally have strong thumbs, and some will have strong (or weaker) fingers. Oct 20, 2021 · We bought and tested the 5 best grip strengtheners available. I recently got the Metolius rock rings and have been using those regularly but can’t seem to get past the 4 finger hang. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. Training with weight swinging tools (heavy clubs, kettlebell, mace) are good tools to add as a general fingers to wrist to elbow to shoulder girdle mechanics and in my experience over the last year of expirimenting with them has been great for upper body mechanics and mobility and forearm strength for sure. You could look up different finger routines specific to climbers and see if that would help. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. If you identify a specific weakness, programing in 15 minutes to address that weakness In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. I'm sure you could get a gripster and a stack of plates under your desk though. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Jan 12, 2022 · Some climbers will naturally have strong thumbs, and some will have strong (or weaker) fingers. For as complicated as this grip trainer may sound, the exercises themselves are actually quite I've been doing a lot of research on finger strength training, and I've come up with a plan to help me reach my goals. Have you ever been injured specifically while finger-strength training? Reddit's rock climbing training community. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. I'm about a V4/V5 climber and so was wondering if it would be a good choice for me or if it's intended for higher grades, or if anyone had one themselves. A single sledgehammer can give you a multitude of resistance levels just by adjusting where you grab on the handle (add tick marks for reference). I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. Oct 18, 2024 · Strength Training Program for Climbers This is a strength training program for intermediate-level climbers who want to get stronger to help improve climbing performance. Any advice for training finger strength further? Due to my work schedule, actually climbing about once a week is pretty much the most I can do. Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). Regular grip strength training can help prevent these problems. He basically stretched 1 minute video into 25 minutes missing all the crucial points. Is there any research if such type of training translates to improved grip or fingers strength? Have any of you found this exercises Reddit's rock climbing training community. This is an INCREDIBLY simplified view of capacity, recovery, maximal gains accounting when training for climbing-- with only 3 variables instead of 10+, no discussion of the real world (life stress, work, diet, sleep), social context, strength in any other system than fingers. Aug 14, 2019 · While climbing, we face the risk of a foot slip or a dynamic move that can all of a sudden super-load the fingers. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. Climbing grip trainers can be a good extension to your normal climbing training. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per Glossary Reddit's rock climbing training community. Technique should be your main focus and some strength training around climbing specific muscle groups. Finger Strength Training : r/climbharder. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. The home of Climbing on reddit. Jan 26, 2024 · Wait, are you new to climbing? It’s generally advisable to wait before incorporating specific finger training exercises but read on and see if this guide fits you. Apr 9, 2018 · The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. This results in a very effective training tool that improves your strength for both grip (flexion) and finger extension. You’re still brand new to climbing and tendons take a lot longer to get stronger than muscle. Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. It’s important to allow your fingers to adapt and strengthen naturally through consistent climbing. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Check it out! So the other posters have covered the obvious "these aren't super useful" so I'll directly answer the question of how best to use them. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Dec 21, 2022 · Build long-term finger strength while avoiding injury with this structured hangboard training plan designed by Steve Bechtel. Whenever you have some time, squeeze in (pun intended) some finger strength exercises. See full list on sendedition. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Linking with the above assessments, you can attempt a more in-depth analysis of finger strength to determine which grips may be inhibiting your pinch strength: Dragging with fingers straight: for large, wide, slopey pinches. A good grip trainer works the forearm muscles and develops finger strength, keeping you safer. Do a lot of push exercises as well to prevent injury. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). I still prefer before session finger strength training as opposed to after. What will help you best is learning technique. And yes we are scared of falling. I've gone back and forth on this, but I think before is a bit better so you're fresher if finger strength is the priority for weaknesses. Reply reply 86tuning • You're probably better off using a rubber band or other device to work your finger extensors at work as consistent antagonist training. Dedicated to increasing all our… Feb 24, 2023 · Developing a systematic approach toward training provides a way to modulate capacity, prevent overtraining, and reduce injury risk. . I've talked about resting and finger strength but the same applies to all types of climbing movement and climbing strengths. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Watch: Crank up your finger strength with 6 Weeks To Stronger Fingers and send the project you’ve been aiming for. Hangboarding seems very unnecessary at a v5 level. Apr 6, 2020 · 232 votes, 68 comments. Apr 24, 2023 · Block Pulls have been a common modality for rehab (with small weights) as well as warming up at the crag (isometrics) for quite a while, but they’ve only recently been gaining attention as a staple for strength training. Jul 16, 2022 · Forearm strength and muscular endurance can help keep you injury-free while rock climbing. It drove me nuts too when I first started, but for now, your best idea is just to climb more. Take it easy though, tendons are easily damaged. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Jan 8, 2024 · The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. 5 years, am 5’ 8. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. These first years are good to practice technique, improve general body strength and your mind while leading, but I'd avoid doing a lot of fingerboard training or too many crimpy routes. Apr 24, 2023 · Enthusiasm for this ‘new’ training method has exploded, as attention is drawn to the incredible feats of strength happening at the intersection of rock climbing and grip sport (Yves Gravelle, Tanner Merkle and others), while at the same time, suspension type fingerboards and grip tools have become far more available. I recently just started to be able to hang with a half crimp on a 20mm edge, but I don't think this routine is responsible for my finger strength gains, but it has allowed me to feel better on my climbing days to pull harder. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. If the climbing is more important for the while the climbing first can work better though. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. If you have the requisite strength level to campus board safely, IMO that's a better tool that hits most of the same aspects of climbing strength; however, for at home training or if you simply don't have access to a campus board, finger pull ups can be a good exercise. I designed and printed a finger trainer!!! I tested it at 15% infill and it held up well! I plan to use it to strengthen my fingers for indoor rock climbing! Primarily trained in four directions (forward, reverse, pronation, and supination), sledge levering is the ultimate exercise for wrist strength and size. Dedicated to increasing all our… 1. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. He makes this video super complicated with a title "how to get stronger fingers". (And a lovely pastime) Grip strength for climbing is isometric so using the squeezy grip rod things has virtually no translation to crimpin' the proj. Looking for some advice. Someone with good core strength will be able to use that far away foothold on a steep wall and gain a little strength back in their arms whereas someone with poor core strength is only going to drain their strength more. Your mileage may vary. 1 attribute for climbing performance… It’s no wonder everybody talks about finger strength training and the endless training sessions and tools that exist, but this can also make it a bit overwhelming when it comes to knowing what is best?! We thought it would be great to sit down with some of the best climbers in the UK (and who have some of the Gonna throw it out there the recomendation is not to start hamgboarding/ finger specific training until a couple of years into climbing as your tendons develop slowly. Oct 9, 2020 · The GripSaver Plus features a central stress-ball ringed by rubber finger slots providing finger extension resistance. Read our in-depth reviews to find the top options for power lifters, climbers, and musicians. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. Sep 28, 2024 · 7 Best Hand Grip Strength Trainers in 2024 enhance finger, wrist, and forearm power while providing a comfortable, anti-slip handle. You don’t need a climbing gym, as all exercise variations can be done with regular free weights and your body weight. Yet he makes no comments on training fatigue, periodization, progressive overload or how to fit these in a weekly training program that includes climbing. This may or may not help but climbing requires a lot of finger/hand/forearm strength. Initially, it was used for pinch blocks to isolate the thumb more effectively, but soon, climbers realized they could also use this approach for regular edges to spice up their finger strength training! The best climbing coaches and athletes, including Lattice Training, Tyler Nelson, and Yves Gravelle, use this state-of-the-art Looking to build your finger strength as a rock climber? These articles, podcasts, videos, and more can help you learn to strengthen and care for your fingers. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. Jan 8, 2019 · r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang). My forearms like they’re getting stronger but my fingers feel stagnant. How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! Reddit's rock climbing training community. akgkrkd yjmfqyqq odah dhq wkzslq exdllah iyswhb eedhl ojob lxxk