What is lead rope climbing reddit. -I personally use the thicker 10. Mostly lead climbing with a GriGri. One of these was right below a small roof that I wanted to protect well, so I placed two cams in it about 5 feet apart from one another, at the same height. It really boils down to personal preference I have two different ropes that I use. It’s totally normal for leading level to be lower than top rope level. Rope drag: depends strongly on the material available (sport climbing draws vs. 8 when climbing sport or in the gym. Whipping on lead is scary. Any suggestions? Generally if you’re new to lead climbing you don’t fully understand how more slack = less impact (the impact gets applied to system slower and more evenly spread out through out the system). You need a good book, or an experienced leader to teach you, and if you don't have a good lead climber to work with, I highly recommend practicing lead with a top-rope backup. Is the route you want to TR solo at an ideal angle? I'm a fairly new climber (2 months) I'm desperately wanting to get outside more and start climbing roped problems instead of just bouldering outside. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. Am I going to die? Any advice very welcome! Apr 24, 2025 · We tied into 17 climbing ropes to find the best of the best. Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. Skinny ropes of all designations are fine for alpine climbing, just understand that you might have to retire the rope if you actually whip (worst case scenario). lots of direction changes. Dealing with fear is a very common theme in climbing, all the way from being afraid of bouldering heights to being afraid of taking big whippers when lead climbing advanced grades. I’ve used Mammut, Bluewater, and Black Diamond in that order of preference. 2 70m dry rope as an alpine/sending rope for this summer. -I use the thinner 9. I will not climb on a lead rope that is over five years. Getting several hours of clipping down so its muscle memory, then you can focus on other things like rope management, climbing, etc. But in my To get lead certified it's a 2h class for which the only requirement is to be comfortable climbing and belaying top rope. Been indoor climbing on and off for the last few years (top rope) and my partner and I are looking to take our lead course in the next two months. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. This post goes over the exact differences and the gear used. When I started i got an ATC and I ended up buying a Grigri for sport climbing. However, it is the logical conclusion of "free climbing," freeing yourself from the need of a rope. Hi! When you belay a lead climber and notice there is too much slack, what is the proper way to take it in? I was taught, that I should pull the tail end of the rope with my right hand simultaneously the active rope with my left, then grab the tail-end near the belay device with my left hand, move up my right and repeat. Consisting of strenuous moves and usually less than 25 feet off the ground. I'm not at a point where I want to retire/cut my current rope, so I was planning on purchasing a 30-40M rope that I'd use exclusively in the gym. Ropes appear expensive so I want to make… Tips for a newbie with lead climbing / climbing outdoors - confidence and technique I am relatively new to climbing, and recently went on a trip with my local climbing group to try outdoor climbing for the first time. Our ropes will probably need to be replaced in the next year, so I wanted to poll the sub. And i probably missed several other ways ropes will be used on alpine climbs. They climb to a point, and then clip the quickdraws, and keep climbing. -A gym rope is going to take a lot of falls and abuse as you try harder stuff to grow as a climber so they are generally thicker ropes (like 9. What grade walls were you doing before making the switch to lead climbing? Update: Thanks for all your advice everyone! I have convinced my brother to take the lead class with me and we will be doing that sometime after Christmas. IMO a PAS is gear that's a bit heavy and not every versatile, better to learn to work without it. That way I am always grabbing the tail end with one of my hands. Newbie question but I'm wondering what counts as having finished a climb on an indoors top rope route. An ATC is more delicate as its proper use requieres more attention and experience. Solo climbing I am super new to climbing. Comparing them is like trying to compare BMX biking and touring the country on a road bike. Aug 23, 2022 · Lead climbing, however, entails dragging the rope up with you as you climb. To keep safe, you periodically clip into protection—maybe a bolt, maybe a nut, maybe a cam—as you progress upwards. ). The trick is to use your short gym rope and have your partner lower you fast, then pull your own rope SUPER fast after your partner gets off belay. The real distinction between top roping and lead climbing is the belay system used. I definitely don't condone it. half rope technique), experience in reading the best line through the pitch, and the pitch itself (straight line, no traverses vs. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. It looks like a lot of my friends are getting into lead climbing and going outdoors. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. Been trying to decide between two Edelweiss O-Flex options (9. My question is, is 9. I think if you’re paying under $150 for a name brand rope you are doing pretty well. 9+ or mid 10) free-solo and i told him that it was pretty selfish. It’s really best to have dedicated ropes for the different stuff you are using them for. I’m a long time rock climber and started ice climbing this past season. You'll need to do some research about what rope to get though, there is a lot of varietydiameter, treatments, dynamic/static, length, etc. 13 would have maybe v7-8 moves, but a 60 foot 13 would have v4-5 moves. Hey all, need some advice on a rope. 8, if you want to get comfortable practicing bring a mock rope with you and clip that while you are climbing top rope. I’d much rather learn about how to top rope climb outside before getting into lead climbing, I guess that might be a personal preference? Idk. ) Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. Use a Grigri. I have lead up climbs in sketchy situations, but never where a fall would cause death. ), then learn how to give slack with a climber on top-rope who is down-climbing, then climber Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Whenever I hear the big no-nos (with regards to clipping) for lead climbing, it's always not to z-clip and to back-clip. I hit someone standing there on the head with my butt in my fall and I guess this slowed me down enough that the belayer finally caught me 1 meter above ground. I don't have much desire to do this, but it seems like there's a sentiment (I've seen it on this sub as well) that indoor top rope is just "pulling plastic" and is somehow an inferior way to climb. 8 or 10. I was near the top of the wall when I fell. At the same time, the rope is more abrasion resistant. The home of Climbing on reddit. Top rope is fun in the meantime and sort of satiates my desire to boulder. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I always have a reverso on my harness when climbing outside for use as a rap device but in the gym, I use a gri-gri all the time on TR and most of the time on lead. Lead climbing has a higher degree of fall chance since you will fall back down to the last clip in. I’ve recently just learned how to lead climb, and usually go with friends who are less than 10-15kg heavier than me. alpine draws), rope technique (single / twin rope vs. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? To get lead certified it's a 2h class for which the only requirement is to be comfortable climbing and belaying top rope. Nov 6, 2023 · So, what's the difference between lead climbing vs top rope climbing? Below, we’ve compiled an in-depth guide to the five key differences between lead climbing vs top rope climbing. I am a little weary about lead climbing for fear of falling/heights, but have decided to push myself regardless. 10's so I can start lead climbing and get the "just me and the wall," feeling back again. I am getting 9. 1 the majority of the time, because I am a heavier guy and am predominately a traditional climber. What are the best techniques? Do you have a rope and quickdraws yet? It might be very helpful to get a quickdraw, a length of rope, and to practice clipping (look up videos on how to do this correctly, or have an experienced partner show you). Taking a test is free as long as you're a licensed climber (aka member of a climbing gym or club). Some may refer to it as advanced top roping, and while it does require a different skill set than top-roping, it isn't the only means to climb more complex routes. Primarily single pitch climbers, though looking to get on more multis. You do want a dry rope for mountaineering, but you'll wear away the dry coating much more quickly if you use it regularly for sport climbing & trad, on rock. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. Hey Climbit, I have a harness, a reverso 3, shoes, chalk bag, and a partner (with the same). But in my Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. I'm sort of stuck on which gear to buy to top rope on a few walls. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). The dude had been climbing for at least 5 years mind you. You then climb up the wall, trailing the rope behind you and clipping it in at certain points so that it catches you when you fall. 8 - 5. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. Top rope climbing is where the rope is anchored from the top. I don't have a written link to this, sorry. Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. The obvious example is speed climbing, but between bouldering and sport climbing (lead and top) the gap has increased the last years due to the modern style of setting. Bouldering is short, intense climbing. Just open the package and plop the rope on the ground, flake, and climb? 60 votes, 98 comments. I wanted to know when the right time would be to take the lead climbing class my gym offers. I'm looking to purchase a rope for some lead climbing indoors. With a single rope, the pieces Also worth mentioning there is the grigri plus that has selectable options for top rope or lead climbing which increases the amount of friction needed to lock it out. Lead climbing should be scary when you start out. So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. 8 mm rope. Apr 4, 2025 · We tested 13 climbing ropes from Sterling, Petzl, Edelrid, Mammut, and others to find the best options for you. Getting the rope on the thing you want to climb can often be the hardest part of a TR solo project. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. Check out this Mammut. The fear is just your lizard brain trying to keep you from killing yourself. This is common in climbing gyms. the gri-gri lets me control the rope better when my climber needs to boink or jug up the rope, I don't have to worry about the brake releasing if he asshats me or something bad happens. My SO and I got into an argument about sport climbing. Ropes appear expensive so I want to make… There are some pretty good sales right now. As for geartop roping is pretty easy to get into, the rope is the expensive part. Of course, depending on usage, a rope may last far less than 5 years. Bouldering= (typically) Short climbs that don't require a harness or rope. Why not combine both fears on a 12a May 22, 2025 · The standard progression of a climber involves learning the ropes (pun intended) on top rope and then progressing to lead when you’re ready for the next challenge and a new array of possibilities. Partner gets back on belay quick and you’re good to go. Read about the basics of lead climbing, including what lead climbing entails, how to learn to do it and what gear is required. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. My question is, how can I improve my 113 votes, 200 comments. It allows for gear placements that would create significant rope drag with a single rope. the lead climbing part is easy (don't have your leg behind the rope, don't zclip, know how to clip, don't back clip, know how to fall is basically all you need to know for a gym test. An equivalent mistake would be clipping between your It's really hard to equate the grades of bouldering and rope because if a route is 30 feet, a 5. Is it possible to top or lead rope solo? Also this may sound like a dumb question but how do you top rope outside? Today, my boyfriend and I took our brand new climbing rope to the gym to test out our shiny new lead cert passes. But today I was leading an overhanging route where one of the quickdraws was in my lap as I clipped it, and I ended up clipping between my figure 8 and my harness. $120 for 60m is pretty fair. Do you have a regular climbing partner that you could test with? I’ve been climbing for 15 years and wouldn’t do a lead test at a gym with a stranger I had minimal climbing experience with (well, not just test I wouldn’t lead/sport climb with someone I hadn’t already climbed with for a while and was very familiar with). May 22, 2025 · The standard progression of a climber involves learning the ropes (pun intended) on top rope and then progressing to lead when you’re ready for the next challenge and a new array of possibilities. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). Reply reply Gedoubleve • Reply reply BananaGarlicBread Falling and risking cratering is part of the package when lead climbing. What is the official rule to having completed an indoor top rope climb? For cleaning sport routes there's no disadvantage to a PAS but tying and untying knots is a part of climbing and getting used to it is worth while. Ropes are organic compounds, they 294 votes, 52 comments. " Your statement "you're no more at risk burning your hands on a lead climb than you are on a top rope. My… Building up endurance to climb more 5. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. My I enjoyed the climbing, but also the whole rope/gear management, making a good setup, placing anchors, thinking about all the steps, changing from lead to rappel to toprope to rappel again. Also watch for abrasion, that’s what actually kills ropes. And yes we are scared of falling. 1 mm rope and a 9. The rope drag from pulling the rope back through the draws makes it a workout on its own and you don’t get to cheat a rest as easy. 6-). Lead climbing is where the the rope is behind the climber. Mammut (they don’t make the model anymore, but it was pretty much their cheaper 9. What’s your opinion on lead vs top rope in regards to claiming grades? I was introduced into the sport by very proficient and experienced climbers who held the attitude that only leading was “real” climbing. If you intend to go regularly, and split your time across climbing & mountaineering, I'd consider buying more than one rope. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. I’ve been using my friends dry rope this season and loved it. ), then learn how to give slack with a climber on top-rope who is down-climbing, then climber Whenever I hear the big no-nos (with regards to clipping) for lead climbing, it's always not to z-clip and to back-clip. Your lizard brain doesn't understand that the equipment will keep you safe, it just sees a rope going from your waist down instead of up, and it freaks out. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. He is adamant that top-roping is absolutely NOT sport climbing. For example, I was climbing with double ropes on thursday in the Gunks, where there are lots of horizontal cracks. I already didn't like the guy. 2), the Sterling slim gym I started climbing around five months ago, mainly as a way to exercise and to help with anxiety. I'm mainly needing to know which rope I need to buy for simple top roping and maybe a few lead climbs once I learn how to belay and clip in. I guess I went into the conversation as a somewhat ignorant climber that almost exclusively boulders, I consider climbing with ropes and safety gear (non-trad) to be sport climbing. Your lizard brain is just trying to look out for you, but your rational brain knows better. 54 votes, 44 comments. Other than that, some tubular webbing to make anchors, maybe some cordlette/slings, locking biners, and a belay device. Thanks! It feels like it’s awfully soon in our journey to start thinking about lead climbing, but maybe that’s just me, the over cautious, over prepared, learner. They took it out and it failed the first drop test. I started lead climbing, then switched to almost only bouldering, which I think all in all has affected my "technique" negatively for lead. A friend who worked at Western Mountaineering told me that a Petzl rep claimed that Petzl put a rope in a dark, dry closet for five years. Based on the comments and upvotes, it looks like more people prefer using the gym's lead ropes, although some people prefer to have their own lead rope for peace of mind, cool factor, or to avoid being without one at a busy gym with limited ropes to give out. So I'm going to start lead climbing in my local gym and I'm going to need a rope. You have to train Rope burns are known to occur in half rope technique with HMS in the HMS carabiner itself, or when lowering in a redirect carabiner, in which two independent ropes are simultaneously hung and loaded, but only lowered through one strand (a possible accident scenario in sport climbing). My gym does the lead test on a 5. Someone may use lead climbing to set up a rope and then prepare that rope as a 'fixed rope' for the remainder of the day/week/season. Don't go way over, that can lead to reinforcing the fear, instead start off with something completely comfortable and go from there. Also, you generally want short (30-50m) & skinny ropes for mountaineering, because they save a lot of weight Sep 2, 2015 · In a nutshell: Top rope and lead climbing are methods for protecting a climb. I have a 10. You start with a demonstration, explanation of all the rules, the whys and the how to (like why we clip the rope the way we do. It all depends on the height of the route. After lots of use and abuse on rock, ice, and at the gym, these came out on top. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? It really boils down to personal preference I have two different ropes that I use. Second bolts are notoriously the most dangerous to clip as any amount of slack out will almost certainly expose a climber to decking, or getting very close. Tying in with the rope is also a good habit (not applicable here I realize). 11 votes, 47 comments. I'm just curious In lead, the selection it's a compromise between efficiency and risk of failure, so in that sense lead is more mentally difficult than bouldering. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. One of my friends did a 5. Like many things in climbing, it's a personal choice whether to take measures for a very low probability event. Any suggestions? Sport climbing= Climbing with a Harness and clipping the the rope into the wall as you go up. " is absolutely untrue - especially in multi-pitch climbing. Granted, it looks like hard work, but it makes the necessity of having a partner for lead climbing obsolete. Lead climbing is when you tie into the rope at the bottom of the route, so it’s not anchored to anything. Safe to say, I have mixed feelings about it now. I'm looking a buying a new rope for using in the gym, as my partner is getting tired of me abusing his 60M sport rope. I'm a fairly new climber (2 months) I'm desperately wanting to get outside more and start climbing roped problems instead of just bouldering outside. I soon discovered this after I couldn't climb any farther. I also want the rope to be able to perform well outdoors. What else do I need just to get outside and climb for the first time? What kind or rope and draws and anything else? Also, where can I find instructions for doing my first lead climb? Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. Use an ATC on trad climbing or if you are using half/twin ropes. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. Lead rope soloing is scary. Rope climbing is long, steady climbing at a much "lower" V grade equivalent that take insane amounts of endurance and strategy to get through in one shot. Is the route you want to TR solo at an ideal angle? 11 votes, 16 comments. Am I wrong with assuming that lead climbing and top roping are encompassed within sport climbing? The rope you're climbing on should be doing the stretching, a moving masterpoint under weight can allow strands of your anchor legs to cut against the rock. 7 (he leads 5. A Grigri is very easy to use, and its semiautomatic brake is really safe. 2 too thin to be top roping on ice? It seems like there is much less rope drag potential overall with ice climbing since You take a test in a licensed club to obtain each passport, which involves climbing a few routes at a given level and belaying on toprope (white passport)/on lead (yellow passport). . Thanks! 11 votes, 16 comments. 1. 8)- the texture on the sheath is so soft and the rope itself is flexible 57 votes, 42 comments. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? There are some pretty good sales right now. 8+) where as an outdoor rope is thinner for weight savings and won’t see as much use as a gym rope (9. So I guess I have a few questions… God damn it was so much fun. Also hoping to get into outdoor eventually (baby steps). Bottom line is that again it all boils down to personal preference. Wasn't holding the rope properly and it slipped through. Nov 15, 2023 · At the end of the day, lead climbing is another form of roped climbing. Any tips for preparing physically and mentally as we transition into lead climbing? A full setup for JUST sport climbing, where everything is bolted is as follows: harness, rope, full rack, belay device, a PAS of some sort, and an anchor build with the slings and biners. I've seen people touch the bar at the top, touch the final hold, match on the final hold for 3 seconds, touch the autobelay deviceand depending on the route some of these things are much harder than others. Does the route you want to climb have top access to hang the rope? If not, you’ll have to get the rope of there by other means (lead rope soloing an adjacent pitch, aiding, etc. Rope Soloing Just watched Pete Whittaker's film about rope soloing Freerider on El Cap last night and since I haven't stopped thinking about how nice rope soloing sounds. nnytuprj izoke isfz uyswk ndwgvgr ihnr luf aqwmik xpsxyds pwvf